How much water does your skin need?

originalHydrate, hydrate, hydrate. This fad-ish conversation of drinking more water has really got us thinking. Being properly hydrated helps our joints and helps our digestion but no where in this recent dialog am I hearing about how much we need for our skin.

“Back in the day” diet counselors and skin clinicians said to drink eight 8-ounce glasses of water per day. That 64 ounces felt like swimming in a 100 lb. woman but to a highly active 180 lb. man it bordered on dehydration. Most modern health advocates give us the formula of dividing your body weight in half and drinking that number of ounces. But where the skin is concerned there is more to consider.

Given that our bodies are 75% water it does make sense that we need to constantly replenish it to keep it going. Our skin specifically needs water to remain plump but interestingly only around 15% of what goes in our mouth ever makes it to the surface. This lack is compounded by the fact that as we age some of the bio-chemical components within the cells that are responsible for holding water in place diminish and our natural skin oils that form an evaporation protection barrier lessens.

Only 15% of the water we drink ever makes it to the surface of the skin.

This means that perhaps we need more water and definitely need to prevent dehydration. Once a cell flattens from lack of water it is very difficult to plump it back up and prolonged dehydration crystallizes some of those bio-chemicals leaving shards that can cut and damage cells. Damaged cells = wrinkles.

So how much is enough? That modern formula is seems to be pretty perfect but consider that if we are consuming dehydrating liquids or are exposed to wind & sun, or heat our homes with wood and forced air, or are perspiring daily with exercise, or flying on airplanes, we need even more. You know what they say; if you feel thirsty you are already dehydrated. And if your skin looks crepey like a desert floor then you are way, way past dehydration.

To keep your skin plump, in addition to the water consumption formula above, here are some replenishment calculations to help you understand your skin’s need for water:

  • Coffee, black or green tea, caffeinated sodas, alcohol.  These are all diuretics which means they cause the body to expel as much water as they put in.  For each ounce consumed replace with an equal amount of water.
  • Laxatives, magnesium.  These draw the water from the central parts of the body to the bowels and in the process dehydrating the outermost part of the body.  Drink several glasses of water for each one taken.
  • Hormonal therapies.  These block hormones that regulate the production of skin oil so skin dehydrates very quickly.  Drink as much extra as you can with water beverages that increase your electrolytes for better maintenance.
  • Flying on airplanes.  The air in the cabin is de-humidified to lighten the load of the plane so bodies dehydrate quickly.  For every hour on the plane drink 8 oz. of water.  Additionally misting the skin with water hourly is helpful.  My Rehance Mist is excellent for this.  NOTE: Most air sickness is due to dehydration.
  • Perspiration.  If you perspire a lot, many health advocates are recommending consuming up to a gallon of water.  I calculate that for every hour of perspiration I need an addition 16 oz. of water.
  • Exposure to the outdoor elements or over-heated homes.  Wind and sun dehydrate the surface of the skin as does air-blown heat in our homes.

THIS IS KEY: to help your skin maintain the water you give it, consider how the skin itself is designed to do so.  Sodiums and sugars within the cells are responsible for holding water in place and sebum produced in the oil glands released to the surface of the skin helps the bio-components themselves from drying out.  As I mentioned previously, as we age all of these become diminished thus the need to help our skin.  Moisturizing your body daily before the skin dries out is important.

  • Look for body and face moisturizers that contain water retaining ingredients like sodium PCA and sodium hyaluronate, beta-glucan and beta-fructan or polysaccharides.
  • Look for moisturizers that contain sebum-like oil such as squalane and oils that have nutritional omega-3  fatty acids like almond and olive and oils that help seal/sooth the skin like shea or sesame.

This is how I formulated my body lotion.

NOTE: a properly hydrated body should produce 6 to 8 cups of clear to slightly yellow urine per day.  If your urine is very yellow you are dehydrated.

At-home facials for winter dry skin

tigycevkxcfkv8mdpnr3hmujFor those of us who live in cold winter climates, the life gets nearly sucked out of our skin on a daily basis. Below freezing temps & wind coupled with over-heated homes & offices halt the production of our naturally protective sebum [skin oil] and evaporates the water from our bodies. The result is skin that looks like the Bonneville Salt Flats, is irritable and prone to red rashes.

Simple measures at home, though, can erase this effect.  Keeping a good moisturizer on morning and night help maintain the skin but once it has lost it’s natural protective barrier then it needs treatment.  There is a mistake made by scrubbing away the visible dead skin cells; this only irritates the skin further.  The reintroduction of water to the surface cells then sealed in with sebum-like oil is what is needed.  The dry, dead skin cells will naturally release once the foundation of the skin is conditioned.

Following are a few facials that you can give yourself at home using my therapeutic products but you can also use substitutions if you are not able to acquire them from me.

DSC04882Quick Fix Shower Steam

  1. Apply a thick layer of Emolulite Cleanser to the face & neck while showering.  The glycerine in it absorbs the water from the air to plump the skin, the squalene oil in it clings to water too & conditions the skin naturally [because our skin’s own sebum contains squalene] and the blackberry seed oil feeds the skin with antioxidant protection.
  2. Remove cleanser with a warm wet washcloth.  Skin will feel soothed and plumped!  Apply moisturizer of choice.
  3. Substitutions: a mixture of honey and oil (be careful of thick, fatted oils that will clog the skin causing breakouts).  This will produce a similar effect yet not as pleasing nor as scientifically beneficial.

Relaxation Tub Facial

  1. Draw a bath for yourself, step in and, if possible, pull the curtain or close the door around you to allow steam to build up in the air.
  2. Wash face/neck with Purify Frothing Cleanser.
  3. Apply a medium-thick layer of Pumpkin Creme Masque.  Leave in place as your skin can tolerate, up to 8 minutes.  This will gently remove dead skin cells and stimulate blood flow to encourage healthy skin renewal while keeping the skin moist.  Remove product with a wash cloth and set aside.  Splash face with tub water to remove entirely.
  4. Apply a medium-thin layer of Lemon Honey Butter masque.  Leave in place for up to 15 minutes then splash off.  Towel dry face/neck when leaving tub.  Skin will be incredibly full and moist and rosy!  Apply moisturizer of choice.
  5. Substitutions: On clean skin apply a mixture of honey and oil (be careful of thick, fatted oils that will clog the skin causing breakouts) then remove by scrubbing a bit with a warm wet washcloth. This will produce a similar effect yet not as pleasing nor as scientifically beneficial.

Walk-around in-a-hurry facial

maple masque dual image

  1. On clean skin apply a medium-thick layer of Maple Jolt Masque.   Leave in place for up to 15 minutes.  This masque is great used in the tub or shower but when in a hurry it is enhanced by body movement and even exercise! Benefits include stimulating blood flow to detox skin & encourage new cell growth and increase hydration in skin.
  2. Splash off with warm water and immediately, while skin is still slightly damp, apply 2 pumps of Glow and 5 drops of Top Dressing Oil.  Once dry apply moisturizer over this as needed.  Skin will be glowing and plumped.  Any redness will dissipate within one hour.

Of course nothing can quite give you the benefits of a professional facial.  Please contact me if you need help understanding your skin and its needs.

Jane

All about skin peels; what’s best for you?

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Several decades ago pioneering Estheticians began experimenting with topical solutions that would cause the surface of the skin to peel away with the benefit of creating a new complexion. Not unheard of, dermatologists had been providing strong chemical peels for many years prior to that but these new “paramedical” peels were less invasive and more consumer friendly. Thus became America’s love affair with Peels.

With continuing interest, today, the word “peel” is marketed to include simply over-the-counter scrubs as well as general exfoliation in the facial room. So if we have an interest how do we know what is best for is best for ourselves?

Although we are in an enlightened era of self-empowerment aided by the accessibility of instant products and information, only a professional can truly tell you what is best for your skin. The likes of “Olay micro-peels” are simply dumbed-down exfoliants geared towards the masses; yes they do something but a real “peel” released to the general public would have too much liability associated with it. Peels that create lasting change can only be administered by a trained professional.

Here is how I like to describe the various levels of peels:

Level one: OTC exfoliation. Removal of the already dead skin cells by manual means at home; over-the-counter scrubs or fruit enzyme masques, wash cloths, ultra-sonic & rotary brushes.
PROs: Cleans up the skin, gives a shine to the complexion, helps new skin to form more easily, helps moisturizers to work better. No visible peeling.
CONS: Dry or thin skin can be irritated if moisturizing is not associated with the exfoliation.

Level two: Aesthetic exfoliation. Disturbs the skin cells that are still attached during the natural shedding process causing them to release earlier and faster with product at home; cosmeceutical enzyme peels or scrubs usually with added glycollic, lactic or salicylic acids purchased through a licensed salon or spa.
PROS: speeds up the cell renewal process, helps to keep mutant skin cells from malforming (like keratosis), gives a shine and smoothness to the complexion. No visible peeling.
CONS: can irritate the skin or, with over-use, can create burns or rashes if product is not specifically suited to your skin type.

Level three: Micro-resurfacing. Disturbs still attached shedding skin cells plus disturbs live skin cells causing them to prematurely die then to release, thinning the skin to remove surface imperfections and diminish fine lining; acid, vitamin, retinol and pancreatic enzyme peels, micro-dermabrasion. Administered in a medical spa or private esthetics studio. Usually not in a resort or day spa.
PROS: can remove superficial scarring and keratosis, helps reduce hyper-pigmentation, plumps tissue, stimulates elastin and collagen production for a more firm complexion, encourages more healthy skin renewal.
CONS: If administered improperly can cause permanent hyper-pigmentation.

Level four: Paramedical peels. Kills all surface skin cells causing skin to possibly darken then shed off; Jesner, TCA, various blends of acids, vitamins and retinols. Administered in medical spas, dermatology practices and some private paramedical esthetic practices.
PROS: Can remove deep scarring and deep lining, remove hyper-pigmentation and remove many years of skin damage due to environmental aging.
CONS: Uncomfortable to painful, can cause hypo-pigmentation (complete loss of pigment in skin) if not administered properly and resulting esthetic can look “odd” if adjoining areas of skin still look aged.

Level five: Medical peels. Removes all epidermal skin cells plus touches into the underlying dermis; laser, deeper TCA, phenol.
PROS: Once skin grows back, it looks entirely new.
CONS: Extremely painful, allergic immune responses are triggered and resulting new skin looks somewhat artificial.

From a holistic perspective, I am concerned that the body’s immune system and wound healing process is gently stimulated and not over-whelmed when a Peel is administered. Over whelming these systems with toxic solutions or aggressive procedures can trigger the skin’s emergency responses resulting in rashes, painful swelling, clustering of too much melanin and improper healing. And timing is everything; if the skin is exfoliated too often within a 30 day cycle and not allowed to rest in-between, the new freshness that is desired will be illusive replaced instead with a rough or burned appearance.

So take it easy with your peels. Exfoliate manually at home no more than twice a week, use moderation with your serum exfoliants and trust your esthetician to give you the best advice for your skin.

Click here to read more about the peels that I administer.

Summertime skin irritations; causes and cures

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Once the warm, humid weather hits, the emails start rolling in; “Jane, I have a rash on my face. What should I do about it?!” Here is the physiology of warm weather skin irritations and what to do about them.

Skin irritation occurs when the tissue is abraded, is touched with an allergen or, most commonly, when the natural pH of the skin is disturbed.  The skin is by nature slightly acidic measuring between 4.5 to 5.5 on the pH scale and it is this acidity that helps to kill or neutralize irritants.  However, with prolonged exposures or severe changes in pH, the deeper immune system functions are engaged releasing histamines that cause heat and swelling, white blood cells that create redness all resulting in bumps & rashes that damage the surface skin cells resulting in peeling, flaking and sloughing. Then when the skin is in this state of newly exposed cells after the flaking/peeling, it becomes hyper-sensitive which can cause the irritation to become chronic and repeat itself.  And thus the summertime skin irritation that does not want to go away.

Itchy-Eyelids-3Heat-Rash-2bumps2Common warm weather irritations:

  1. The crease above the eyelids and the eyelids themselves – inflamed, itchy and stingy
  2. The forehead – red, stingy rashes and bumps
  3. The center of the face – little pustules and red bumps

Common causes:

Perspiration can be a higher pH than the skin due to the sodium chloride (pH 6.7 – 7.3) it contains. Once the moisture dissipates from the sweat then the salt remains alone on the skin causing irritation which can create a rash. Additionally, perspiration can activate products used on face and in the hair to weep downward to areas not intended for them which causes irritation. Common irritating products:

  • hair styling products – the pH is not compatible with the skin, the gelling agents are clogging and the solvents they contain are an irritant. Additionally, the artificial fragrances are extreme irritants.
  • exfoliating treatment serums/cremes – these types of products are a low pH to activate the renewal sloughing process in the skin of the face but NOT the eye area.
  • Chemical sunscreens – most skins are irritated by the chemicals in sunscreens and when absorbed into the eye area, cause great irritation.
  • mineral make-up when it contains bismuth oxychloride – the common ingredient in MOST mineral make-up is a metal that can cause great irritation and stinging especially when activated by perspiration.

Prevention:

  • Rinse skin within two hours of heavy perspiring to avoid sodium irritation.
  • Avoid wearing exfoliating products when you know you will be in the heat and potentially perspiring.
  • Avoid chemical sunscreens and instead use only natural sunscreens formulated with zinc and titanium oxides like Euchlora’s SummerSilk (also check this ingredient list to make sure your product will not clog the skin).
  • Avoid wearing mineral make-ups with bismuth oxychloride in general and especially when you will be sweating.  Try Euchlora’s custom blended (B.O.-free) mineral Powders and Sheer Moisture Tints.

Cures:

  1. EYES – On clean skin, douse the entire eye area inside and out with anti-histamine eye drops.  Once soaked in, rub the area with an ice-cube for up to 15 seconds.  Using a QTip, apply a thin coat of calamine lotion to the affected area and let dry.  Splash this off with cold water then apply Euchlora’s EyesTea followed by a very, very thin dab of Stop it * avoiding application close to the lashes.  Following this treatment, avoid wearing eye make-up with lustre or sparkle, remove eye make-up only with oil or creamy cleanser (if not wearing make-up simply rinse eye area with water) and twice a day apply EyesTea followed by a very, very thin coat of Stop it.  Repeat initial treatment once a week until irritation is gone. *If irritation is pronounced hydrocortisone ointment may be needed initially.
  2. FOREHEAD – Clean skin with a pH balanced, fragrance-free foaming cleanser such as Euchlora’s Purify Frothing Cleanser.  Apply a generous coat of Calamine lotion or for greater amplified results, apply Euchlora’s Terraflora Masque.  Let these dry completely, then splash off with cold water.  Apply a coat of Stop it then at a second time each day, wash as above and reapply ointment.  Repeat daily until rash resolves.  NOTE:  This method also works for heat rash on any part of the body.
  3. CENTER OF FACE – Pustules and bumps in this area of the face can be an indication of the disorder Rosacea that is activated by heat and humidity.  These rashy bumps can also simply be caused by heat and perspiration as above.  For either, wash face with a pH balanced, fragrance-free foaming cleanser such as Euchlora’s Purify Frothing Cleanser.  Apply a clay masque such as Euchlora’s Terraflora Masque and let dry.  Rinse off with cold water and apply 2 pumps of Euchlora’s TLBC vitamin C Concentrate serum to entire face.  Repeat once a day until bumps have subsided.  Maintain results using TLBC regularly and avoiding heavy moisturizers during heat and humidity favoring light zinc oxide moisturizers like Euchlora’s Tranquility Lotion.

Please feel free to contact me in the studio with any further questions.  If you are in California check in with Jane-Ann Lowes at BlushLA.

Jane Balshaw jbalshaw@comcast.net  603-491-7305

 

The benefits of chilling your face + summer facial special

Ice face 3

When the temperatures are up outside, the skin on your face struggles to regulate its temperature. Perspiration is released to cool it down but in the meantime blood vessels dilate, the tissue gets slack & puffy then irritation & breakouts ensue. Chilling the skin during these times not only halts the cycle of irritation but helps firm the skin and sculpt the face.

For years I have been a proponent using cold in a facial keeping a refrigerator full of herbal gel concoctions at my finger tips and ice to roll on the skin. The hot/cold strengthens blood vessels and seems to tighten up the underlying connective fibers in the skin for a more firmed facial complexion.  This thought process is catching on.

Read about ice rolling here and here

Cool down this summer in my studio. The Chilled Summer Garden Facial is 45 minutes of cool-down bliss with fruit acid exfoliation, toning & relaxing massage finished with my own garden tinctured rose geranium masque and ice rolling. The skin is left tightened and radiant! Air conditioned studio, view of the water, gentle sea sounds…. Take home a travel size of my Rehance Mist to replenish your skin during the summer, now through the end of August.  $70  BOOK

Cool down at home. Take home an ice roller to keep your skin in check at home.  Ice Roller $30.00HD Ice roller home front

Masques; the at-home summer facial

at home facialThere is nothing like a facial in my hands – so you tell me – but in the absence of my curative expertise you can refresh your skin at home by giving yourself facial. Beyond simple cleaning and moisturizing, applied facial masques can add additional benefits into your home skincare routine.

Masque benefits fall into two categories; “add in” and “take away”. Add-in masques contain specific skin nutrients and hydrate tissue to boost and enhance the skin’s functions. Take-away masques are designed to remove or pull out cellular waste to detoxify and smooth the skin. In my Euchlora skincare line the Lemon Honey Butter and the Maple Jolt are both add-in masques. The Terraflora Masque and the Pumpkin Enzyme Masque are both “take away” masques.

In the summer when our skin out-puts so much oil and perspiration flushes toxins to the surface of the skin, a take-away masque is of great benefit. Euchlora’s Terraflora smoothing and detoxifying Masque absorbs all the summer debris, soothes over-heated or broken out skin and kills bad bacteria that may form during the hot months. [this is the go-to masque for acne!] Following this with proper moisturizing leaves the skin gorgeously smooth and radiant.

Here is a facial you can give yourself at home that incorporates all the steps that happen in my professional facials*:

  1. Cleanse the skin with your creamy cleanser of choice to remove make-up (MeadowMilk or Emolulite). Follow with a foaming cleanser for deep cleansing (Purify Frothing or Bio-tanical).
  2. Apply a medium thick layer of Terraflora Masque avoiding the eye area and let it dry. Once dry splash it off with tepid or cool water.
  3. On your damp face apply a thin layer of Lemon Honey Butter with vitamin C to moisturize and strengthen sun-exposed skin. Leave in place for 5 to 10 minutes. Splash off with warm water. Towel dry skin.
  4. Spritz face with Rehance mist.
  5. Apply one pumps worth of Glow (or GlowCustard for very dry skins) and roll on EyesTea around eyes.
  6. Finish with a layer of SummerSilk chemical-free sunblock.

*NOTE: although at home facials incorporate similar steps that a professional facial does, my professional facials utilize much more active products that require skill and special licensing. As such, they will create more change in the skin.  At home facials help maintain the skin and enhance what professional work does.

Need a facial or some consultation?  Click here..

Product knowledge; NEW CrowdControl 10+ Complete

DSC06451CrowdControl 10+ complete Concentrate is a non-irritating thin serum that smooths onto the skin penetrating the skin follicles to break-down hyper-trophic skin-cells & black-head build up, kill acne bacteria and halt the manufacture of stress hormones that stimulate cysts.  A dry gel finish of active ingredients protects the skin to reduce inflammation & redness, heal damaged tissue and prevent hyper-pigmentation scarring.  An all-in-one product, this is a synergistic blend that balances and heals the acne & keratosis prone skin over time in a holistic manner* eliminating the need for harsh peeling products.

In a base of water, vegetable glycerin and grain alcohol, salicylic, glycolic, lactic, tartaric and citric acids are dissolved.  These extracts derived from fruit and herbs work to break down keratin, the protein of skin cells, to allow the build up of skin cells to slough off the surface of skin and from within follicles to clear clogs and prevent them from occurring again.  In addition, these acids in the grain alcohol are naturally anti-bacterial so help keep pimples at bay.

Essential oil of Helichrysum in included in the blend.  This precious extract from the African and Australian plants aids in preventing and healing bruising in addition to being naturally anti-bacterial.  Essential oil of french lavender is also added well-known to stimulate the healing process.  Applying unadulterated pure lavender essential oil directly to burns, for example, takes away all the sting and redness so thusly aids injured acneic tissue to be soothed and regenerate.  Lavender is naturally anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and anti-viral.

The sophisticated peptide Argireline (Acetyl hexapeptide-3), normally used as an anti-wrinkle ingredient, is included in Crowd Control because of its ability to inhibit the release of adrenalin and noradrenaline in the neuronal skin cells. One of the triggers for closed comedone cystic acne is the over-flooding of these hormones associated with stress; eliminate the adrenalin and the swelling/infection cycle is stopped.

Niacinamide, Vitamin B-3, is included to provide it’s well documented ability to lighten scarred tissue and to provide and anti-inflammatory effect which reduces redness.  The sophisticated ingredient Alpha Arbutin (4-Hydroxyphenyl-α-D-glucopyranoside) is also included to reduce inflammation and to suppress the over activity of melanin formation which results in hyper-pigmentation scarring.

* Holistic methods work with the natural body functions, retraining them to function normally when they are disfunctioning and strengthening them to do what they do normally allowing the body to heal itself.